Wednesday 31st July Mae Salong (Santikhiri), Thailand

Mae Salong, Tea, Chinese, ThailandMae Salong may be my favorite place in Thailand. Not only does it grow and produce wonderful oolong teas in the Taiwanese style, but it is also filled with funky modern history and is more than twenty degrees colder than Bangkok or even neighboring Chiang Rai.

Chinese, door, village, tea, Mae Salong, Thailand

This northern town was founded in the mountains outside Chiang Rai and near the border with Burma by semi-retired/post-civil war KMT (Kuomintang or Guomindang or Nationalist Army or 中國國民黨 you take your pick). These Chinese soldiers and their families fought in Southern China during the civil war that followed World War II. As the tides of war change and the Nationalists saw their positions fading, many escaped, retreated, and regrouped in Northern Burma and continued to fight despite the victory of the communists in the capital and Mao’s proclamation of the Communist Chinese state in October 1949.

Mae Salong, Thailand, Chinese, tomb, graveThese Nationalist soldiers did not fare much better in Burma than they had in Southern China and were forced to relocate again, this time choosing Northern Thailand. Here they built a community of (primarily) yunnanese-speaking, tea-drinking, high-mountain-living folk. Also they tended to smuggle opium across the border on donkeys, but that is only natural. What are borders for if not illicit exchanges? Many of the old nationalist soldiers are buried in elaborate tombs around the many little valleys.

rain, Mae Salong, Thailand

These days, most of the illegality is gone, but the cold, Chinese community, and tea remain. Laurel and I spent multiple days enjoying the cold, if a little rainy, weather with cup after cup of nice hot tea. I also bought about four kilos/nine pounds of tea to bring home. Mae Salong, tea, production, Thailand

tea, Mae Salong, Thailand, production

tea, drinking, Mae Salong, Thailand

Thailand, Mae Salong, tea, bag, oolong

We also hiked around up and down a bunch of hills and valleys and even saw some giant walking sticks.walking stick, Thailand, Mae Salong

It was fun trying to talk to people in a mix of Thai and Chinese. At times I was pretty unsuccessful, but that is part of the fun, right? Actually I was surprised by how well my Thai stood up despite the heavy accents.

valleys, Mae Salong, Thailand, viewThe most amazing part of visiting this city may be the views. Mae Salong sits almost a thousand meters higher than Chiang Rai and the long and winding ride up to the top has some amazing lookouts. The city itself is thin and straddles the ridgeline. I really haven’t been to a place like it before. If you happen to be reading this deciding whether or not to go, I cannot recommend it enough.

3 thoughts on “Wednesday 31st July Mae Salong (Santikhiri), Thailand

  1. Mickey

    Hi, guys! Haven’t heard from you in quite a while! I can only guess how much fun you are having. I remember the tea stop my tour made — maybe it’s the same place you’re enjoying. You must be in nirvana, Robert :) That green bag of oolong looks like the one I bought but didn’t get to enjoy much (if you know what I mean) — buy me one and I’ll pay you back! The weather sounds like Portland, although we again have not had any rain all summer! Stay in touch! Have fun!

    Reply
    1. Robert A Findlay Post author

      Mickey,
      Things here are going well, and yes, I have been covering myself in tea these days. I think I have about ten or eleven pounds to bring home so far and when Laurel and I go to Sri Lanka I am sure I will pick up a bit more. How could I not? We also had a fun side adventure to Malaysia that I will put up a report on soon. Hope everything there is going great. Say hello to Woody for me.
      ~Robert

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